The word “tapas” is derived from the Spanish/Portuguese verb tapar, “to cover”, referring to a type of pot which was placed over the top of a drink to keep out flies. The pot would typically contain bread, meats and cheeses – it has even been suggested that the aroma of a strong cheese was used to disguise the smell of terrible wine. In the modern world, Tapas has evolved to become a cuisine in its own right, offering such delights as patatas bravas, tortilla de patatas and gambas.
Lorentes restaurant in Derby describes itself as a ‘little piece of Spain in the heart of Friar Gate’, and as the sun breaks through the clouds on a spring afternoon I can almost believe it. I have been a regular customer at Lorentes since it first opened its doors and my favourite way to experience its wonder is to take it long and slow. A nice bottle of wine (or two) with food dishes being ordered sporadically, when the mood takes. On my last visit our party of four booked a table on a Saturday afternoon between 16:00 and 20:00, catching the calm before the storm so to speak. If you are able to get a seat at the bar all the better, for capturing that authentic Spanish atmosphere.
The menu is larger than it was in the early days and offers a fantastic selection of dishes that would not be out of place in the heart of Barcelona or Madrid. Don’t forget to check out the specials board situated next to the bar. We started with a selection of olives and a portion of pan con tomate. I first tried this dish in Barcelona; lightly toasted bread served with garlic, olive oil and a local tomato which I have never been able to find outside of the city. I myself have made several attempts to recreate this simple yet wonderful dish, and whilst close, I cannot do as good a job as the chefs at Lorentes.
Our next selection included a portion of pimientos del padron, which are delicious fried green padron peppers. And who can resist a wonderful tortilla de patatas? The peppers are bitter and crusted with salt, which pairs beautifully with the rich, creamy potato tortilla.
Our meat course follows. For many years I avoided meat and it has been something of a challenge to adapt my pallet. Lorentes has suited my journey, offering small, but well cooked meat dishes that haven’t left me feeling too overwhelmed. Somomillo de cerdo con pancetta is a delightful dish of perfectly cooked skewered pork tenderloin, with the most wonderful aromatic sauce flavoured with cinnamon and red wine. This is a dish I will return to time and again. Alongside the pork came a grilled lamb dish from the specials board, served with beautifully soft and luxurious gratin potatoes. Finally, we had the rabo de toro estofado which is braised oxtail with a creamy cauliflower puree. I confess that I am not a lover of beef, and ordinarily wouldn’t order from the menu. But this is tapas, so I can hardly refuse. Even I cannot deny that this is a beautifully, well-cooked dish, the beef melting in your mouth. The rich umami flavour works well with the soft, creamy cauliflower. Would I try it again? Most definately.
We finished off our meal with jamon serrano y queso manchego, a mixed board of serrano ham and manchego cheese served with crispy bread sticks and quince jelly. And as if all of that wasn’t enough, one final portion of pan con tomate.
The high street is overwhelmed with chain restaurants, including a couple that serve Tapas. Lorentes win’s hands down for food, service, atmosphere and for that authentic Spanish experience; assuming of course you can disregard the British weather.